Posts from the ‘Knitting Patterns’ category

Book Knitting

Over the last year or so, I’ve done some pattern designing on the sly. It’s awful not being able to show what I was knitting here. I’ve grown so used to it! FINALLY, there’s a photo I can show.

You may recognize the black sweater on the cover from way back when. It’s revamped in Peace Fleece in a gazillion sizes with a brand new, extra menacing skull. I can’t even tell you how excited I am to get the cover.

To Amazon.com! It’s still four months away from release, but don’t let that stop you. :)

The Knitter’s Book of Yarn: The Ultimate Guide to Choosing, Using, and Enjoying Yarn by Clara Parkes is another book I designed patterns for. This is going to be a super interesting book that explores fibers, yarn construction, yarn weights, etc., and provides patterns for each type/style of yarn.

I’ve also got some stuff in Larissa and Martin’s Knit-Along(link to the blog), but that’s not on Amazon yet. Hurry up, Amazon!

I really lucked out with these jobs. With the exception of the SNB sweater (Debbie knew exactly what she wanted as far as the design went. I did get to choose the Peace Fleece and was very happy to be allowed to use a small company’s yarn.), I was given so much freedom with designs and got to do some crazy modern takes on traditional stuff. Many thanks to the authors.

Shop Update:

The next shop update will be next Tuesday, the 26th, at 2 pm EST. Sarah’s sending tons of stuff, and I’ve been dyeing, dyeing, dyeing.

After dyeing up a bunch of the BFL laceweight yarn in semi-solids, I got to wondering if anyone was interested in semi-solid sock yarns. Speak up and I’ll dye some for the update to see how it sells. thanks!

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Free Knitting Pattern: Mushroom Pulse Warmers

mushroom pulse warmers modeled
I’m a hand model!

Get the pattern.

SUPPLIES:
YARN:
Rauma & Røros Lamullgarn- 1 skein each of #11 (MC– white), # 43 (CC– red) and #15 (CC2-black), 250 meters/50 gram each. 2 ply 100% lambswool –OR– approx. 15-25 grams of MC and very small amounts of CC & CC2 fingering weight wool yarn
NEEDLES: Size 0 US, or size needed to get gauge
BUTTONS: 4, approx. 3/4” in diameter
SIZE: S (M, L, XL)
TO FIT: 5”- 5.5“ (6”-6.5“, 7”-7.5“. 8“-8.5“) -measure wrist over wrist bone
ACTUAL MEASUREMENT: 7” (8”, 9“,10” ) long and 3” high
GAUGE: 9.5 sts. and 11 rows per inch in chart pattern.

mushroom pulse warmers

A bit about colorwork, for those unfamiliar:
In my experience, holding the background yarn in the right hand and the patterning yarn in the left results in a much clearer knitted design. This pattern has 3 colors used in the same row, so I held the black under the red in my left hand and the white in my right. It’s not awfully difficult or anything, but you do want to keep the strands organized, particularly in a sticky yarn like this, or you’ll end up with a painfully tangled mess, complete with hissy fit (or is that just me?).

Here are some links that deal with knitting in more than one color:
Knitting in Color
Fair Isle 101

About gauge:
I know there’s going to be resistance to swatching for this project- I mean, the thing is the size of a swatch. My thoughts are that I’ll give you a gauge for this yarn in stockinette in the recommended needles and you can guesstimate your gauge that way, or, if you know your usual sock gauge, you can adjust needle size from that and just forge ahead. Just don’t blame me if you’re off! This is absolutely not guaranteed to work. The garter edges are knit flat, so why not work one of those and then take your work off the needle, lay it flat, and be honest with yourself about the size?

The gauge I got for this yarn in stockinette on size 0 needles is 8.75 sts. per inch.

See the pattern for discussion about gauge, yarn, and steeks.

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How I Thrum

Thrummed mittens have been around for a couple of hundred years in Northern Newfoundland and Labrador. The term thrums refers to yarn waste from weaving looms. According to Robin Hansen’s Favorite Mittens (many thanks for the book, Jennifer!), these bits could have at one time been knitted into mittens and other articles for added warmth, but now fleece, roving and, in my case, at least, prepared top are generally favored.

Since people have been knitting these mittens for so long, I really only have one thing to add, other than my hopefully infectious love of these amazingly warm mittens, and that is my opinion that the more thums, the better, and the closer they are to each other, the better. I like a solid, warm, fuzzy blanket inside my mittens, not a sparse, lumpy, sad blanket like some patterns create. Being able to feel the lumps inside is about as annoying to me as a wrinkle in my sock or sock fuzz between my toes. Obviously, I also tend to go a little crazy with the color, which was not how it was done way back when.

Here’s how I thrum:

thrummed mittens
Get your fiber. This is hand-dyed combed top in a soft, fuzzy wool (fine Bluefaced Leicester in this case). You want to use a wool that will stick to itself after you’ve installed it in your mittens. After some wear, the thums will felt together into one soft mass. Merino, Corriedale, fine BFL, or anything that’s soft (a fine to medium fine wool) would be ideal. It will both felt together and please your fingers. I would not recommend superwash wool, as it tends to fall apart. Use top, roving, or locks of wool.* About 2 oz. should do you.

thrummed mittens
Hold your hands a few inches apart and pull off a piece about 8 inches long.

thrummed mittens
Strip off a thin piece from the side of that chunk.

thrummed mittens
Work your way along this strip, attenuating and teasing the wool apart and fluffing it up. It’s grown in length from the teasing. The more air there is in the wool, the warmer your hands will be.

thrummed mittens
Fold the ends of the thrum to the center and press them in.

thrummed mittens
Now, fold the thrum in half, enclosing those pointed ends. This makes everything so tidy. Some patterns call for the thrum to be the same thickness as the yarn. I don’t go for that! No harm has yet been caused by my super fat thrums.

thrummed mittens
Make a whole bunch.

Now, to knit them in.
thrummed mittens
When you get to the spot where you’ll add your thrum, bring your yarn over the needle as usual and put your thrum around the needle, with half above and half below. Pinch it in place with your left hand. Pull both the yarn and thrum through the stitch.

thrummed mittens
The thrum and yarn stitch are side by side on the needle.

thrummed mittens
On the next row, when you come to this thrum/yarn stitch combo, knit them as one.

thrummed mittens
Lovely!

thrummed mittens
Inside view.

thrummed mitten
Finished mitten.

Thrums aren’t reserved solely for mittens. You can thrum hats, wrist warmers, and socks, like my lovely friend Susann makes. Imagine!

Here are two popular patterns of thrum placement:

thrummed mittens

thrummed mittens
This diagonal pattern would be especially attractive on a pointed-tip mitten. You could line up side decreases with the diagonal line of the thrums.

For yarn, I’d recommend something nicely woolly and worsted weight or thicker. The woolly yarn will latch onto the thrums, and worsted to chunky weight seems to produce an ideal fabric for me. I knit the yarn at a slightly tighter gauge that the ball band calls for. This will help keep the frosty wind out.

If you’re not using a thrum specific pattern, you’ll need to give the pattern some ease, since those thrums take up a lot of room. An inch or two should do you nicely.

Do you live somewhere cold? Make some!

I heartily recommend Robin Hansen’s Favorite Mittens, skimpy though her thrums might be, if you are interested in traditional mitten patterns. I never would have known what a treasure this book is from looking at the cutesy cover.

* To use a lock of wool, you’d fluff it up and attenuate it a bit if it’s short, so that it’s about 3 inches long. Once it’s folded in half and knit in, you’d have a 1″ long thrum sticking out of the back of your thrummed fabric. That would make a lovely warm mitten.

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